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Oceanography: waves
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Oceanography: waves
theory and principles of waves, how they work and what causes them
by Dr J Floor Anthoni 2000
www.seafriends.org.nz/oceano/waves.htm
When the wind blows across the water, it changes
the water's surface, first into ripples and then into waves. Once the surface
becomes uneven, the wind has an ever increasing grip on it. Storms can
make enormous waves, particularly if the wind, blows in the same direction
for any length of time. In this chapter, you can learn what waves are and
how they behave. Learn to understand the principles behind all surface
waves.
waves and environment
Waves have a major influence on the marine environment and ultimately
on the planet's climate.
wave motion
Waves travel effortlessly along the water's surface. This is made possible
by small movements of the water molecules. This chapter looks at how the
motion is brought about and how waves can change speed, frequency and depth.
waves and wind
The wind blows over the water, changing its surface into ripples and
waves. As waves grow in height, the wind pushes them along faster and higher.
Waves can become unexpectedly strong and destructive.
waves in shallow water
As waves enter shallow water, they become taller and slow down, eventually
breaking on the shore.
wave groups
In the real world, waves are not of an idealised, harmonious shape
but irregular. They are composed of several interfering waves of different
frequency and speed.
wave reflection
Water waves bounce off denser objects such as sandy or rocky shores.
Very long waves such as tsunamis bounce off the continental slope.
go to the oceanograpy index <==>
go to special waves tsunamis, seiches, bores and
internal waves
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