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Chapter 8: "Set Free--The Book About Hair" by Richard Stein - New York City Hair Salon - featuring haircutting, hair styling and beauty products, including Stein's Fleuremedy Hair Care line
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"CHAPTER 8
Styling with a Little Artifice
The easiest way is usually the best--providing you get the effect you want with your hair--which is why I love to dry and style the natural way, without depending on devices to
do it. But sometimes--perhaps because you are feeling a little daring and experimental, or you want a more elaborate look for a special event, or you have simply given up trying to get your hair to do anything you consider acceptable--you want extra volume, body, height, or more curl or shape. Setting or perming (which includes the body wave--a light perm that changes the texture, body, and hold power of the hair) can do all these things, as well as giving you more flexibility in styling your hair.
As the word implies, "perms" are relatively permanent, lasting three to five months. Setting is temporary; as soon as you wet your hair, the curl will come out, if it hasn't already relaxed from humidity, or wind, or being slept on. How long a nonperm set lasts is determined by the texture, wave, and body (natural or artificial) already in your hair and how much abuse it is subjected to. Hair that already has body will hold a set much longer than naturally straight hair, as will a set that is teased and sprayed (although I shudder to think what it costs your hair); even a tight set tends to "slide out" of straight hair just in the course of an ordinary day. If you wash your hair every morning, this won't matter much, as the hair must be rewet to be reset. (You can do dry refreshers with hot rollers or a curling iron, but this is not very effective in holding a style.)
There are two basic ways to get a good set. The first--and oldest--is to set wet hair with curlers or roller or pipe cleaners or rags or clips. Then either let it dry naturally or "force-dry" it with some kind of hairdryer--hand held or the old helmet type. The second way is to set barely damp hair with a heating device: electric--or hot--rollers or a curling iron.
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