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Bitter Greens Journal: The Way Forward
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"Bitter Greens Journal
This blog will serve as a running critique of industrial agriculture, a clearinghouse for info on sustainable farming, and a working manifesto for a liberation politics based on food.
Wednesday, June 29, 2005
The Way Forward
"The Way Forward," an occasional Bitter Greens Journal feature, focuses on small-scale sustainable-food efforts that challenge the dominance of industrial and industrial-organic agriculture. Readers are urged to e-mail me--tom@maverickfarms.com--with ideas for this column. Smoking out industrial hog production Has industrial pig farming ruined traditional North Carolina barbecue? The New York food writer Jim Leff--founder of chowhound.com and a man whom I have seen eye a pulled-pork platter with a fervor a religious fanatic might reserve for a beloved icon--says no. Leff once told me he thought it was ridiculous that a certain restaurateur insists on using Niman Ranch pork, from heritage-breed pigs raised on small farms without industrial inputs, at his high-toned Manhattan BBQ joint. Barbecue is about taking the cheapest cuts of pork and turning them into something sublime, Leff told me, or something to that effect. I see his point. Surely, it's sacrilege that BBQ has turned into the latest Manhattan status food, complete with $20/plate price tags and accompanying wine lists. BBQ is working people's food, and yes, it must never live high on the hog. The barbecue cut par excellence is the shoulder--or, put more bluntly, the butt. Yes, the pork butt. But must the butt--the pork butt--have no pedigree? Must we lovers of NC BBQ submit to the awful and growing hegemony of Smithfield Foods , that farmer-destroying, flavor-killing, environment-befouling, labor-exploiting profit machine? Does one have to go to Manhattan and sit among tedious Wall Streeters to get smoked pork t"
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